Definitions
ADAPTIVE
[adjective]
Currently, most brands and retailers fail to consider disabled customers. Adaptive fashion is designed to cater to a wider spectrum of abilities.
Example: “Mainstream fashion design excludes a large part of the population. People with disabilities need to feel reflected and considered in the fashion system. Fashion touches 100% of the population, so it can be used as a social tool to make a positive impact.” – @samantabullock
BIODYNAMIC
[noun]
Biodynamic is a type of agriculture certified by Demeter that improves and maintains ecosystem health, positively impacting biodiversity and the microbiome of soil.
Example: “Biodynamics can be applied to grow food and fibre crops, manage forests, raise livestock and regenerate natural landscapes or sites that have been exploited by human endeavours.” – @arizona_muse
CARBON OFFSET
[noun]
An asset purchased to counterbalance greenhouse gas emitted in one place by capturing or avoiding emitting greenhouse gas in another place.
Example: “Fashion brands often buy carbon offsets so they can report smaller overall environmental footprints. For example, a luxury brand that emitted carbon in its supply chain might pay a landowner to install a wind farm that allows the landowner to stop using energy derived from carbon-emitting coal. While having a smaller footprint is a worthy goal, there are two things worth keeping in mind about carbon offsetting. One, it should always come after a brand has done everything in its power to reduce its direct emissions first. Two, not all offsets are created equal: some are less able to deliver reliable long-term results than others, so brands that are committed to doing it right will be very choosy and transparent about who their offsetting partners are.” – @unwrinkling
CHILD LABOUR
[noun]
Any form of work that deprives children of their childhood, their potential and dignity and that is harmful to physical and mental development.
Example: “As child labourer, I was very naïve to the world. It was so easy for people to control and use me. My childhood was stolen. Mentally, physically, socially, and morally I was silent in action and in my opinion. I entered into my adult years carrying immense trauma from the days of which I survived being a child labourer. Living life with this kind of trauma often leads to a short life expectancy.” – @_NasreenSheikh
COGNITIVE DISSONANCE
[theory]
The discomfort experienced by a person who holds two or more contradictory thoughts, ideas, or values.
Example: “If you believe that unethical fashion is wrong but occasionally shop from unethical brands, that’s cognitive dissonance. Research shows that when we behave in contradiction to our beliefs like this, we experience actual physical discomfort + mental stress. Finding ways to be consistent is the best resolution to these feelings. This complex psychological theory is re-emerging alongside society’s developing consciousness and engagement in environmental, socio-economical and political issues. It’s heightened when we realise that we really do have a choice to act in alignment with our beliefs – but what’s difficult is aligning our individual actions with the systematic processes we live within.” – @EntryLevelActivist
COLLECTIVE ACTION
[tool]
Efforts taken together by a group of people with the shared goal to improve their status or the status of others and achieve a common objective.
Example: “What we can’t achieve alone, we can together. This is as true for producers in the supply chain as it is for consumers and campaigners. The people who make our clothes are better able to improve their conditions when they have a collective voice in the workplace. We can do so much more as citizens and consumers when we join forces.” – @ChristineGent_
COLONIALISM
[noun]
Creating wealth through occupying space for disproportionate gains.
Example: “The majority of the fashion industry still operates within colonized frameworks that have taken new forms of capitalistic structures. Instead of striving to maintain a culturally, economically & creatively sustainable industry rooted in fair trade, the industry increasingly exploits emerging economies. Large fashion houses operate just as colonisers by creating wealth through occupying space, taking resources, exploiting cultures, people, knowledge & communities on various levels for their own disproportionate gains. There are opportunities to operate with an inclusive, respectful, conscious approach. However, it will take the dismantling of the colonizer structure for the whole ecosystem to thrive.” – @NorBlackNorWhite
COMPOSITION
[noun]
The way in which something is made up; the nature, mixture or combination of its ingredients.
Example: “The composition of our clothing can be petroleum, plant-based or animal derived and often contains chemicals which can be toxic to human health and ecosystems. Around 60% of clothes are derived from non-renewable fossil fuels, releasing significant amounts of greenhouse gases during the production process and shedding microfibres whenever they are worn or washed.” – @CarrySomers
CONDITIONS
[noun]
The circumstances or factors affecting the way in which people (and animals) live and work, especially with regard to their safety, well-being and livelihoods.
Example: “Exploitative working conditions are rife across the global fashion industry. This may include forced and child labour, unfair pay, sexual harassment and unsafe workplaces. Exploitation tends to thrive in the least visible parts of the supply chain. We must demand greater transparency, from farm to factory to warehouse. It can help shine a light on the people making our clothes, what conditions they face and where change is most needed.” – @SarahDitty
CONSCIOUS CONSUMPTION
[noun]
A philosophy of more mindful consumerism, where our purchasing habits are less harmful to people and planet.
Example: “Conscious consumption is the idea that we should be spending our money on products and services that are less harmful to the planet and its ecosystems, which are increasingly under threat from destructive business practices. In fashion, conscious consumption includes ethical brands which produce clothing with cleaner materials and practices, as well as alternative shopping habits like second-hand and rental services.” – @future__dust
CONSUMPTION
[noun]
1) The act of using up a resource or substance in its entirety.
2) Where customers pay money in exchange for goods and services.
Example: “Global fashion consumption continues to gain volume and speed at unsustainable levels and relies on a culture of disposability. Around the world, we produce too many clothes, from unsustainable materials, the majority of which end up as waste. Instead of designing for landfill, we must design for longevity, and encourage a generational and cultural shift that relies on keeping our clothes.” – @OrsoladeCastro
CULTURAL SUSTAINABILITY
[noun]
Acknowledging the sustainability that is culturally embedded within traditional craftsmanship by supporting knowledge transfer to future generations.
Example: “Cultural sustainability enables slow-paced and resource mindful production. The principals of design to minimise waste and emotional connection to the garment are inherent to traditional textile production.” – @culturalintellectualproperty
DEFASHION
[noun/verb]
Defashion is a crisis response to dismantle the current fashion system; a transition to clothing systems that are regenerative, local, fair and sufficient for the needs of communities.
Example: “To ‘defashion’ is to transition towards a post-consumer world. It advocates a diversity of independent, local clothing systems, all equally respected and liberated from the dominant global fashion industry.” – @fashion_act_now
DIVERSION
[noun]
A shift in focus. When something is shifted from course to avoid a previously determined path.
Example: “Diversion is the new ‘away’. The Global North’s primary strategy for tackling fashion’s waste crisis is to divert clothing from landfills and incinerators into the global second-hand clothing economy. Yet with more clothing than can be (re)worn, fashion’s waste often ends up in the dumpsites and waterways of the Global South. We’ve created a diversion by focusing attention on shifting the destination of excess instead of addressing the cause of the crisis – the generation of waste. We must do a better job of questioning ideas and marketing strategies that don’t make disruptive change to understand that diversion targets will only foster a better system if we also tackle the problem of overproduction at source.” – @TheORIsPresent
EARTH LOGIC
[noun]
A fashion action plan that challenges us to put Earth and the health of all its species above the pursuit of profit.
Example: “By working in the ‘landscape of less’, we confront questions about volume and growth in fashion production and consumption. How we move from a system of growth to one based on care is essential to the work of redefining fashion within planetary limits.” – @earthlogic_plan
ECOCIDE
[noun]
Ecocide is unlawful or wanton acts committed with knowledge that there is a substantial likelihood of severe and either wide-spread or long-term damage to the environment being caused by those acts.
Example: “Ecocide refers to only the most severe and threatening environmental crimes, such as large scale oil spills. Policymakers must recognise ecocide into international law in order to punish and prevent these crimes.” – @marie_touss1
GARMENT CARE
[noun]
The process of cleaning and caring for garments to support material longevity, excluding toxic ingredients that harm the planet and its inhabitants.
Example: “Until fashion transitions to a circular system, it’s the responsibility of consumers to be mindful of garment care to extend the life of their clothing and produce less textile waste as a result. Designers must provide accurate information on material content to support this, and as consumers, we must educate ourselves on cleaning processes and product ingredients. Collectively, we can protect the health and safety of living beings by avoiding environmental contamination.” – @Celsious_Social
GREENWASHING
[terminology]
Greenwashing is when brands, corporations, organisations or governments co-opt sustainability narratives to portray an environmentally responsible image without sufficiently responsible action.
Example: “Sometimes a fashion brand can use a single ‘sustainable’ project or moment to manipulate customers into believing the brand’s entire value chain and ethos is ethical. This is often evident in consumer-facing initiatives like a communication campaign, a fashion collection or brand packaging, leaving other irresponsible supply chain details and decisions hidden.” – @LilEarthGirl
HYDROCIDE
[terminology]
Coined by Sunita Narain in the film River Blue, Hydrocide is the deliberate murdering of our rivers by human activities around capitalism and industrialisation.
Example: “The fashion industry is committing Hydrocide on rivers in garment producing countries around the world. In Bangladesh, the Buriganga river is polluted daily by toxic leather tanneries, while, in Indonesia, the Citarum river is home to some 2,000 textile factories, dumping waste and effluent into the unregulated waters. Fashion industry Hydrocide is driving water scarcity around the globe.” – @RiverBlueTheMovie
IMPULSE BUYING
[noun]
Impulse buying is the act of purchasing an item on a whim, without giving much thought to the decision.
Example: “Impulse buying happens when we are distracted, disengaged or are looking for a dose of instant gratification. While these purchases can lift our mood temporarily, the feeling is often followed by regret in a continuous cycle of mindless consumption.” – @ShakailaElise
INNOVATION
[noun]
Creating and scaling a feasible new idea, system, or product that solves a problem, evolves an existing solution, or prevents a potential or forthcoming issue.
Example: “Consumers are waking up to the repercussions of fashion overproduction and reckless consumption, and more sustainable technologies are emerging to address those concerns. Innovations like biomaterials look to nature for inspiration, learning from time-tested processes and systems to create and scale new materials that can profoundly impact the fashion industry.” – @BoltThreads
LIVING WAGE
[noun]
A wage on which it is possible for an individual and his or her family to live a decent life that covers their basic costs of living like food, shelter, education, healthcare, etc.
Example: “As per Fairtrade, living wage is the remuneration received for a standard work week by a worker in a particular place sufficient to afford a decent standard of living for the worker and her or his family. Elements of a decent standard of living include food, water, housing, education, health care, transport, clothing, and other essential needs including provision for unexpected events.” – Subindu Garkhel, @FairTradeUK
MICROPLASTIC
[noun]
Small pieces of plastic less than 5mm that persist in the environment, particularly in aquatic and marine ecosystems.
Example: “Synthetic fibres, such as polyester, nylon and acrylic, are widely used for the fabrics in about 60 percent of our clothes worldwide. When worn and washed, these fabrics are known to shed small pieces of the synthetic yarn – called microfibres – into the environment. There are an estimated 1.4 million trillion microfibres in our ocean.” – @Exxpedition_
PLANNED OBSOLESCENCE
A business, design and economic strategy where products are intentionally planned to fall apart or become unfashionable quickly, pushing the consumer to buy more.
Example: 1. “Fast-fashion brands produce poor quality garments which are easily damaged after a few wears or washes, so they are no longer functional.” 2. “The fashion industry creates trends which cause clothing to look out of date after a short period of time. Trends pressure people to get rid of their clothes and replace them with something new.” – @Mindful_Mending
PROVENANCE
[noun]
1. A product or object’s place of origin
2. Value associated to a product or object based on its place of origin.
Example: “Provenance is a consciousness in identifying and protecting the starting point of our creative process at its ‘source’, which is fundamental to traceability and therefore vital for strengthening fashion’s circular economy in today’s world.” – @OmoyemiAkerele
PURCHASING PRACTICES
[noun]
Purchasing practices refer to the way that global brands and retailers interact and work with suppliers. Purchasing practices include how brands source, buyers pricing, lead times for placing orders, payment terms, forecasting and stability for suppliers.
Example: “In the wake of the COVID-19 crisis, we can see how the purchasing practices of big brands are specifically designed to limit brands obligations to suppliers. Large brands typically only pay after delivery of goods, which has made it possible for mass cancellations and imposed discounts, including on orders that have been completed or are in production. This has allowed brands to minimise profit loss, whilst suppliers are left unable to pay workers.” – @LabourBehindTheLabel
RESALE
[noun]
The act of selling an item again. In fashion, resale extends the life of neglected clothing, shoes and accessories in efforts to reduce waste and build a circular economy.
Example: “The growth of the fashion resale market, which enables consumers to save garments and accessories from ending up in landfill, has been enabled by increasing awareness surrounding textile waste, high-emission production processes and labour exploitation. Beyond closing the loop, resale allows fashion-lovers to acquire pieces they couldn’t otherwise access or afford to buy new.” – @Zainab.Slow.Fashion
REWEAR
[verb]
To wear again. The action of wearing an item of clothing more than once. Often done with intention to foster a more responsible and thoughtful approach to the consumption of fashion and one’s own wardrobe.
Example: “In some instances, wearing an item multiple times can be viewed as a rebellious action that rejects traditional cultural pressures brought about by capitalism and consumerism. This action of rewearing bucks the modern trend we see in citizens and social media users wearing items only once due to the perceived negative cultural connotation of re-wearing an item. The ‘Rewear Revolution’, taking place on social media, sees people sharing images of themselves rewearing items of clothing and sharing stats around reducing waste, water and carbon footprints by extending the active life of an item of clothing.” – @emsladedmondson
SLOW FASHION
[noun]
A commitment to reparative work and regenerative practice, that works to heal the destruction and imbalance caused by capitalism and racism. Actions that promote cooperative, interdependent and symbiotic relationships with the living communities in the social and bio spheres, to safeguard the fragile connection between them and respect their needs and limitations.
Example: “To engage and embed slow fashion practice in a business model, brands have to be aware of their drivers, the space they operate within as well as what they have internalised. It is a continuous self and industrial audit, that requires a committed energy and a versatile attitude to the unlearning of traditional business models and structures that are historically oppressive.” – @saint_lovie
SUSTAINABILITY
[noun]
An inherently Black and Brown indigenous regenerative mechanism for living and engaging with nature. Grounded in an ancestral relationship with the Earth but has evolved into a resistance of colonial structures so we can all find well-being, joy, and empathy-based healing.
Example: “Sustainable fashion brands can produce within the confines of an extractivist economy to create apparel experiences that leave a minimal footprint on our planetary system and instill authentic socio-cultural solutions. As a continuous work in progress, a brand must value Black and Brown relationships and reconnects to localized communities in order to be truly sustainable. Ethical fashion stewardship celebrates, cultivates and centralizes indigenous equity while mitigating environmental detriments so as not to compromise future generations.” – @DominiqueDrakeford
SWEATSHOP
[noun]
A factory or workshop, especially in the clothing industry, where people are employed at very low wages for long hours and under poor, unhealthy and oppressive conditions.
Example: “My experience as a slave labourer in a sweatshop equated to very long hours, poor conditions, low wages, in an environment where I was breathing in chemicals every hour of the day which leads to prolonged health risks. I was forced to make hundreds of garments a week for less than $2/day. With no bed in the sweatshop, I slept on the clothes I made until they were shipped off to people that would never understand the pain I felt while making them. People subjected to these conditions tend to die young and many take their own lives.” – @_NasreenSheikh
THRIFT
[verb]
Thrift is the quality of using money and other resources carefully and not wastefully.
Example: “Although ‘thrifting’ (buying used clothes at a low price) is an ever-growing part of conscious fashion, the word isn’t exclusive to shopping alone. Originating from the Old Norse word for success(!), thriftiness can be defined as the opposite of being wasteful – regardless of resource. While the environmental benefits of buying used clothing are becoming ever more apparent, many people worldwide have no choice but to thrift for their garments. Let’s consider our conscious consumption choices in a global context.” – @EntryLevelActivist
UNDOCUMENTED
[adjective]
Not recorded in or proved by documents. Not supported by documentary evidence; lacking documents required for formal employment, migration and everyday life.
Example: “Millions of people worldwide are born and die without ever being documented. Unregulated manufacturers use undocumented individuals who work from secret and illegal sweatshops that are hidden in unmarked buildings throughout inner cities slums and villages. Think for a moment and ask yourself: what challenges would you face without a social security number, driver license, passport, or bank account. In what ways would this disempower your life? Could you go to school? Could you obtain proper employment or rent a home? Could you receive medical treatment if you were sick? Could you file a police report? Sadly, the answer is no.” – @_NasreenSheikh
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