COP29: Frustrations with the multilateral system and the urgent need for Global Climate Action
By: Claudia Castanheira – Communications Manager at Fashion Revolution Brasil
After two weeks of complex negotiations and over a day of delays, COP29 concluded with the resignation of the poorest and most vulnerable countries, forced to accept a climate finance deal far below the $1 trillion annually demanded by 2035. The final agreement settled on $300 billion per year for climate financing until 2035, the result of over 30 hours of tense talks and setbacks.
Countries in the Global North, including the European Union delegation, the United States, and Canada, who advocated for less ambitious targets, were widely criticized by international observers and NGOs. The European bloc was even awarded the “Fossil of the Day” on November 20, a symbolic prize given by the Climate Action Network (CAN) to those seen as blocking progress during climate talks.
It’s important to highlight that without adequate financial resources, it will be impossible for countries — particularly those in the Global South — to implement climate actions for adaptation, mitigation, and a just energy transition. This lack of funding also puts the Paris Agreement’s goal of limiting global warming to 1.5°C at risk.
Another notable point was the lack of clear commitments to energy transition — including the phase-out of fossil fuels, a central theme of COP28 in Dubai. This objective, removed from the final document in 2023, was not explicitly reinstated in the agreement signed on Saturday, marking a victory for oil and gas-producing countries.
In a geopolitical context marked by wars and crises, achieving significant progress was expected to be a challenging task. However, the general feeling is that this COP resulted in few, if any, meaningful achievements, increasing distrust in the multilateral process to address the climate crisis.
Fashion at COP29
Fashion Revolution Brazil took part in COP29, engaging in discussions with civil society and other stakeholders to highlight the crucial role of fashion and textiles in addressing the climate crisis.
While formal negotiations left much to be desired, we came out stronger: Building new connections and forging global partnerships, which are essential for driving transformation in the industry.
As a civil movement, being part of these spaces is absolutely necessary. Even in the face of roadblocks and insufficient decisions, we reaffirmed our commitment to pursue a more transparent, fairer, and more sustainable fashion industry.
As members of the Brazilian delegation, we put forward clear demands:
For brands:
- Be transparent about how and where clothes are made, how many pieces are produced, and the social and environmental impacts of their production.
- Set ambitious targets for decarbonization and degrowth, and be clear about how these goals will be achieved.
- Publicly share updates on progress and concrete actions to meet these targets.
For policymakers:
- Develop policies to support Brazil and other garment-producing countries facing climate crises and vulnerabilities.
- Prioritize efforts to cut greenhouse gas emissions in the global fashion industry.
- Ensure small suppliers and family farmers have access to financial resources to build resilience against climate change.
At the event, we presented key reports, including What Fuels Fashion, a climate-focused analysis of the Global Fashion Transparency Index, and the latest edition of the Fashion Transparency Index Brazil, which reviews six years of progress and challenges in the industry.
COP30: What is next?
Looking ahead, our goal is to mobilize the world’s largest civil movement for fashion to come together at COP30 in Belém, Brazil. This will be a landmark event: Brazil is the world’s top exporter of cotton, yet it faces major challenges like carbon emissions from deforestation and a dependency on fossil fuels.
The takeaway from COP29 is clear: COP30 must tackle the issues that remain unresolved. We’ll be there in the Amazon rainforest, demanding an end to fossil-fueled fashion and advocating for the rights of those most affected by the climate crisis, often the women who make our clothes.
The fashion climate agenda is just getting started!
Standing together with #FashionforClimate
